Sorting a few bits out for the watch fair and these where among the bezels i'm taking but I don't know what model they fit, any help would be appreciated, TIA :)
Numbers 8601971 & 86019901
Numbers 8601971 & 86019901
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Anybody recognise these bezels/rotating rings ?
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Flieger Straps & matching BUND Pads by Jurgens what else US $ 81 and up FS
The German made Aviators (Flieger) regular straps & the new tropic style with water - protection rubber sheet with Gore-Tex between the leather and rubber.
Hand made in Germany by JürgensGermany with ss screws for use on fixed bar military watches and spring bar watches, come with our brand name stamp inside Jürgen's Hand Made in Germany
These straps are created in the early 30s for the German military watches, the standard length is 200 mm, check your watch
Lug measurements, you can use them from 145 to 175 mm (first last hole),
Made for Military and pilots watches from all decades, with their vintage look they will make a great addition to any pilot or military watch.
The standard style is made of 2 sheets high quality real soft saddle leather and one sheet of special anti - stretch material between the leather.
16, 18 and 20 mm straps are parallel, all other straps are tapered. With the screws it is very easy to fix and you have the chance to change the strap when ever you like. We recommend using a small quantity
Loc Tide 243 to secure the screws.
The straps are available only with a solid ss buckle Made in Germany.
Comes well packed in an airmail bubble envelope.
Choose from the regular style or the tropic style with genuine black rubber and Gore-Tex inside when you live in hot climate countries.
Our export prices for the regular style are.
81 - $ US $ for one 16, 17, 18,19 ,20 , 21 or 22 mm strap
91. - $ US $ for one 24 mm strap.
132. - $ US $ for one 24/22 mm / with oval holes fits on the 22 mm ss buckle from Panerai.
145.- $ US $ for one 26 mm (B Uhr size)
Our export prices for the tropic style are.
93 - $ US $ for one 16, 17, 18,19 ,20 , 21,22 mm strap
103. - $ US $ for one 24 mm strap.
145. - $ US $ for one 24/22 mm / with oval holes fits on the 22 mm ss buckle from Panerai.
157.- $ US $ for one 26 mm (B Uhr size)
Matching BUND pads are available as well, please send your request (+39.- $ US)
Shipping to the states for one strap is 12, 50 $ US , by registered airmail .
For EU Europeans + 19 % VAT
Shipping in Europe depends on the destination and post calculation.
For single made custom sizes ( XS , XL , XXL or XXXL ) other buckle end sizes then the series please add about 60.- US $ for one strap for the single factory order. Manufacturing Needs about 30 days for these special sizes. Other custom work is possible but needs an offer. Please notice: No exchange for custom made straps!
Payment: Paypal please use my e-mail address info(AT)s-parts.de, US $ by wire to our account in NYC or in EURO to our account in Germany,
Swift, bank cashiers check, int. money order, postal money or cash, in registered airmail letter only please.
If you don't find your measurements here please ask for your personal custom made strap, I am able to make each you need. We offer a wide range of watch straps, bracelets, buckles , deployant clasps, watchmaker tools and Swiss Brand items around watches, please feel free and check out at Jurgens Germany.
Please ask for my feedback.
Thank you very much for your interest, I hope to hear from you soon. Best from Germany Jürgen
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Cool Prospex Video
Sent from my Z916BL using Tapatalk
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Finally added a Bellmatic
Got to where I couldn’t remember to take my meds on time, so it was time for a Bellmatic. Just arrived today off eBay. October 1971. Non-original band, but I still think she’s cool as well as functional! Only thing is, it needs a Kenji day wheel to match my 1972 Seiko 5 Sport!
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A nod to these years.....
We all have years that are important or significant in some way to us. I've decided I'd like to get a watch to represent a particular year (well why wouldn't you :grin:)
Given the depth of knowledge and passion for collecting on this site I would really appreciate some suggestions and reasons for the pick. So here are the years in question:
1970
1986 / 87
2015
Cheers
Edinburger
Given the depth of knowledge and passion for collecting on this site I would really appreciate some suggestions and reasons for the pick. So here are the years in question:
1970
1986 / 87
2015
Cheers
Edinburger
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Identifying a bracelet
Was looking for a bracelet for my 7548 and came across this one today. Theres no other helpful information on the listing other than that its a 22mm. Never seen this type of H link before and wondering if it would fit along with the fat springbars.
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Why there are so many MONSTER Lovers?
I find this watch just have too much chunky of STEEL METAL! ![]()
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hand Diameter for a Caliber 6602 Movement?
Does anyone know the diameter of the second hand for a Seiko 6602 movement? I know most current Seikos take .20mm, but I can't find anything for the older movement. Thanks!
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Orient gold case crystal
Hi,
Recently I got a old Orient watch that had a dial that had been redailed partially and it was a pretty awful job.
So I replaced the dial with a spare I had which looks quite flash. Issue is for the life of me I cannot put the retaining gold bezel/ring that holds the movement and crystal in place.
Once the movement and dial is back in the case. That outer ring just won't click back in.
After trying and trying I managed to bend it a bit.
So my questions are:
1. What's the best way to make that ring level again and then how are you mean to make these things click into the case. I can only do it while the dial and movement are in or I won't be able to put the dial in(it's bigger than the movement hole).
2. How do I find out a part number for the crystal? It is damaged and I need a new one.
Here is a picture of the watch as it was before:
https://forums.watchuseek.com/attach...3&d=1552018890
https://forums.watchuseek.com/attach...7&d=1552018909
https://forums.watchuseek.com/attach...3&d=1552018971
Metal ring/bezel that I am talking about highlighted in red.
Thanks,
Recently I got a old Orient watch that had a dial that had been redailed partially and it was a pretty awful job.
So I replaced the dial with a spare I had which looks quite flash. Issue is for the life of me I cannot put the retaining gold bezel/ring that holds the movement and crystal in place.
Once the movement and dial is back in the case. That outer ring just won't click back in.
After trying and trying I managed to bend it a bit.
So my questions are:
1. What's the best way to make that ring level again and then how are you mean to make these things click into the case. I can only do it while the dial and movement are in or I won't be able to put the dial in(it's bigger than the movement hole).
2. How do I find out a part number for the crystal? It is damaged and I need a new one.
Here is a picture of the watch as it was before:
https://forums.watchuseek.com/attach...3&d=1552018890
https://forums.watchuseek.com/attach...7&d=1552018909
https://forums.watchuseek.com/attach...3&d=1552018971
Metal ring/bezel that I am talking about highlighted in red.
Thanks,
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Distractions
I was watching an Aussie show called Home Delivery by Julia Zemiro about Billy Bragg. They were busking in Barking in front of a watchmakers shop and all I could do was look for watches and brand names.
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Where's my hand engraver
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Authenticating genuine vs fake 6139-600x bezels
While evaluating a supposedly-pristine Pogue the other day (and finding that it was in fact a total bitsa, with mostly aftermarket or transplanted parts), I started wondering about the authenticity of bezels (the Pepsi external, not the rotating inner bezel/chapter ring - that's another chapter in itself …)
Now, there are several tell tales known about already - comment if you think these are still correct or not?
My recent observations - they may be already known, but I couldn't find reference to them and though perspective may play a part in spotting these on photos, I think they're worth noting:
The TACHYMETER font is sometimes a bit variable too - on later AM bezels it's quite close to the markers on the lower edge of the bezel and the lettering is quite square in shape, whereas on genuine bezels the letters are a little taller and there's a bigger gap between the bottom of the letters and the markers, than there is between the top of the letters and the upper edge.
Some earlier fakes had even taller-looking lettering that was practically touching the upper edge of the bezel so again, there's little consistency I think.
Looking at some pics lately, I think I've spotted a reliable tell tale that is pretty much visible to the naked eye - the stroke below the 2 of 250 on aftermarket bezels reaches the end of the 2, whereas on genuine bezels, it doesn't.
Anyway, enough text - here are some photos - see what you think, tell me if I'm wrong and submit evidence by the way of graphics :)
Look at the 140 vs 54:
![]()
Here are two genuine bezels, without and with the block under 60:
![]()
![]()
and here are two known fakes, one from a frankenwatch sold on Ebay a couple of years ago and one that is currently being sold by the usual vendor of fake dials...
![]()
![]()
Now, there are several tell tales known about already - comment if you think these are still correct or not?
- Most known aftermarket bezels don't have a white box under the 60 at 12-o'clock - but lots of genuine, especially early, watches don't either (incl Pogues own) - [EDIT - thanks to post #2 :)] - and aftermarkets are now showing up with a block, so it's no longer a reliable way to spot them.
- There was once a tell-tale about the shape of the 5s - real bezels have 5s that are nearly closed, whereas AM ones were noticeably more open - I don't think this is reliable now
- Some AM bezels don't have a crisp division between red and blue between the 6 and 0 - it should be straight down the middle, though on a later genuine bezel with the block under 60, the start of the red can look closer to the 6
- Some AM bezels have the 80, 85 and 90 very close to - even touching - the edge, but the latest seem to have fixed that, and on old genuine bezels, it can be hard to tell (look at Pogue's again...)
- The horizontal stroke in 4 in 140 on a genuine bezel should be nearly touching the zero, which means it can look longer than the 4 in 54. This still looks to be the case on the latest fakes, but it's not jumping-out obvious. The marker at 140 though, on genuine bezels, finishes below the tip of the one and between the 1 and the 4, whereas on the fakes it's often closer to the 4 and finishes above the 1.
My recent observations - they may be already known, but I couldn't find reference to them and though perspective may play a part in spotting these on photos, I think they're worth noting:
The TACHYMETER font is sometimes a bit variable too - on later AM bezels it's quite close to the markers on the lower edge of the bezel and the lettering is quite square in shape, whereas on genuine bezels the letters are a little taller and there's a bigger gap between the bottom of the letters and the markers, than there is between the top of the letters and the upper edge.
Some earlier fakes had even taller-looking lettering that was practically touching the upper edge of the bezel so again, there's little consistency I think.
Looking at some pics lately, I think I've spotted a reliable tell tale that is pretty much visible to the naked eye - the stroke below the 2 of 250 on aftermarket bezels reaches the end of the 2, whereas on genuine bezels, it doesn't.
Anyway, enough text - here are some photos - see what you think, tell me if I'm wrong and submit evidence by the way of graphics :)
Look at the 140 vs 54:
Here are two genuine bezels, without and with the block under 60:
and here are two known fakes, one from a frankenwatch sold on Ebay a couple of years ago and one that is currently being sold by the usual vendor of fake dials...
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Here's a 6138 chrono thread...
We're talking about 6139's a lot on this forum. Threads about the various versions and how to spot the fakes which are flooding the market nowadays. In many ways I like 6138's more than 6139's...for a start you get hand winding and two sub-dials, - what's not to like.
The fakers are just as active producing fake 6138 dials, and some of them seem even better than 6139 fakes. I notice the common mistakes on fake Bullhead dials seem to be rectified, and fake Kakume and particularly Panda dials are very good and appearing all over ebay. We really need to know our stuff before we start bidding large especially for these models.
Perhaps we should discuss fake 6138 dials? Meanwhile here's a few of my favourite 6138''s (excuse the iPhone pictures):
6138-0040 Brown Bullhead '5' Speedtimer:
![]()
6138-8020 Panda:
![]()
6138-8010 Speedtimer (iridescent blue dial):
![]()
The fakers are just as active producing fake 6138 dials, and some of them seem even better than 6139 fakes. I notice the common mistakes on fake Bullhead dials seem to be rectified, and fake Kakume and particularly Panda dials are very good and appearing all over ebay. We really need to know our stuff before we start bidding large especially for these models.
Perhaps we should discuss fake 6138 dials? Meanwhile here's a few of my favourite 6138''s (excuse the iPhone pictures):
6138-0040 Brown Bullhead '5' Speedtimer:
6138-8020 Panda:
6138-8010 Speedtimer (iridescent blue dial):
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Pallet Fork Lubrication
For those in the know, I wanted to bring up the topic of pallet fork lubrication. I am looking for guidance and opinions on this topic. In my research, I have read and seen watchmakers advise not to lubricate the pallet fork pinions when installing the pallet fork onto the main plate. My most recent build (Seiko 7017-6010 Speedtimer) appears to show lubrication to be applied to the upper pallet fork pinion. Thoughts on this topic.
Regarding lubrication to the pallet fork jewels, I have been applying a tiny amount of Moebius 9010 synthetic to the ends of each pallet jewel using my smallest oiler. I have read that Moebius 9415 synthetic is a better alternative. Thoughts.
Regarding lubrication to the pallet fork jewels, I have been applying a tiny amount of Moebius 9010 synthetic to the ends of each pallet jewel using my smallest oiler. I have read that Moebius 9415 synthetic is a better alternative. Thoughts.
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I have to have that watch now !!!
We all know how it is when one has an itch for a particular watch...Right ? I have to have that watch now or I'll never have the chance to get one that nice...How do you handle this situation ? Do you know better ? There always will be another one, Maybe better than this one...Or will that ever happen ? The hunt is part of the Joy of this Hobby, Knowing there always will be a better example some day is a Fact that has proven itself time after time. Buy that watch one has to have now is bought...Then a nicer example comes along and get's away...What does one do ? Share your thoughts Please...Should be interesting :)
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When did Citizen start using hologram stickers?
Thanks in advance.
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WTB: Citizen 68-5372 spares
Hi! Have anybody citizen cal 7074 movement parts for sale. I need date wheel spring. Now date moving whole time. Thank you
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FS: Tag Heuer WAH1110 F1 Diver Watch $???
Up for sale is my Tag Heuer WAH1110 Formula One Diver watch and very good condition and keeping great time (Watch only) fits my 7.25 wrist very nicely!! Sapphire crystal is clean along with Bezel with nice solid clicks. Crown has a good 2.5-3 turns. Asking 550.00 shipped PayPal ok Please ask any questions you may have. I will post better pictures later these dont do it any Justest
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Seiko Save the Ocean Black SRPD11K1
I took the plunge and got myself the SRPD11 as I really like the black/dark gun metal casing, bezel and bracelet. This will be my dress watch while my Samurai will remain my everyday clunker. I Already had a Nite Icon T100 in PVD black and always found blacked out Watches sort of sexy looking. I have had the watch for 5 days and over that time it has only gained 3 secs, also the lume colour is a nice blue with the minute hand and pip green in colour. Here are some photos, will get around to a lume shot very soon.
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WTB: Seiko 7A28-7040 JDM
Hi,
as the title says, I'm looking for 7A28-7040 JDM version with the original bracelet sporting the "SPEEDMASTER" clasp and no "SPORTS 100" on the dial.
EU deals preferred.
Thanks a lot.
as the title says, I'm looking for 7A28-7040 JDM version with the original bracelet sporting the "SPEEDMASTER" clasp and no "SPORTS 100" on the dial.
EU deals preferred.
Thanks a lot.
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