Just 5 or 6 years ago I became interested in watches again and in particular Seiko for various reasons. About a year later I discovered forums like Timefactors and soon after, The Seiko Citizen Watch Forum. It was mainly vintage divers stemming from the 6105 to the 7002 I was interested in to, of course, finding out what came before with the likes of the 62MAS, 6215 and 6159.
It was posts by Duncan (
TheWatchBloke) and Martin (
Adventures in Amateur Watch Fettling) among others that would get my interests piqued, aswell as seeking out early Mike Mounce and Randall Benson threads from years before with details or insight of anything from proposed production dates and variations to restorations and mods.
The accumulated knowledge they all provided would in turn make me passionate enough to know more about these watches and help others along the way, doing my bit to show others that these fairly common watches were worth their price tag at the time, or at least, not worth turning your nose up to. Along with that journey it provided me with the impetus to discover tinkering with watches and doing full restorations, growing ever more familiar with the great community of Seiko fans on here and other forums. I have a lot to thank Seiko for, aswell as many other people.
At the time nothing quite satisfied my interests as much as the earlier divers, and particularly the 6105-8110. Since then the 6309, 7548, 7C43, and 7002 divers have all caused me to want to learn more and enjoy these relatively low cost, accessible watches. But my perception and enjoyment of these models, in particular the 6105, has also changed, and it isn't necessarily in a positive way.
The 6105 was cool, sort of, in that it was in Apocalypse Now on Martin Sheen's wrist, we've all seen the rather blurry zoomed in photos. However, having been nicknamed the "Willard" which is yet another unfortunate and infuriating nickname akin to "Turtle", and with an updated, shiny, expensive exclusive reissue on the way I fear it has become a little bit of a victim of its own success, and Seiko are making hay while the sun shines, but the sun goes down sooner or later.
Either way, and more than that, to me it was simply an interesting watch by a brand that had a rich history, but who weren't trying to play on it, at least that's how I saw it. The 6105 wasn't anything other than a fairly utilitarian tool watch, it was comfy, good looking, had its issues of course, produced in huge numbers, it was enjoyable and not excessively boastful a watch to own or wear. It was symbolic of Seiko, to me. An everyman's watch. It was cool. It was under the radar. It wasn't full of itself and neither was the owner when it was strapped on the wrist. Those who knew it, knew it. Those who didn't, well it didn't matter.
One also soon realised that they were not even particularly rare. I mean in all honesty, there were some fairly average fake or aftermarket dials on them out there to avoid, and they are and will get better I'm sure, but you could and still can see them turn up quite often. The nicer examples or the ones with potential would fetch higher prices back then, more like 8 or 900 pounds maximum, a lot of money for one of these things, a price that had in itself become excessive for what it was.
When it comes to rarity, it seems as though every Seiko has this label bestowed upon it now, although so called "Proof/Proof" model made for 3 months in mid 1970 would be worthy of this label and I guess its slightly inflated price, but even then they would pop up now and again, just like most other Seiko diver watches. 6159s are out there and keep popping up on Yahoo auctions. 6306s are deemed as much more rare than 6309s, but you soon realise that they're fairly consistently being listed on Yahoo. Infact for every 6309 you'll see listed there you will likely see 10 maybe even 20 6306s, and that's if the 6309 isn't a fake. A different story on eBay. Scubapro models are of course uncommon, a 6306 with a bit of extra text released around '77 to '80/'81, but they, too, are fairly often seen, and will come up for auction now and again. 6215s don't come up all that often and command high prices, and I'd say somewhat more deservedly so. When it comes to perfect condition examples then it can be a whole different argument, and I mean perfect. Not those listings that say "mint condition", but have clearly been on the wrist whilst decorating the kitchen, or cleaning out the loft. And I also don't mean those "NOS" listings, with signs of spring bar removal, no caseback sticker, box, tags, ya know, basically nothing to do with "New Old Stock".
Of course, this is not to say that every other condition warrants the prices asked either, or paid for that matter, as we see them steadily rise across the board. We see "bumped" listings of examples all the time with no real shift in pricing for what is simply not worth the money, seriously. EBay listings that stay put for months at a time as a speculative attempt to rinse someone of their hard earned, and at times they succeed only for the buyer to do some research or have some patience to see yet another, better example comes along just a week, a few days, or even hours later.It's all become just a little...predictable, exaggerated, excessive, rather "un-Seiko".
I felt that a vintage 6105 let's say that I could find for relatively small amounts of money was enjoyable to wear and not something to baby or show off in order to impress those without, all I did was press a button that said 'enter bid' and 4 or 500 pounds later it would be on its way to me. A relatively small amount of money spent without it feeling as if I had to be too precious about it, too aware of the cost, too aware of its supposed rarity.
Fast forward to 2019 and we have all seen the higher prices of 62MAS and 6105 sales especially over the last few years. £3.5k for a '65 small crown 6217-8000. £1.7k for a fairly average condition 6105-8110. £5+k for 6159s if not more, and then some for 6215, if you're aware of them. They've become a real financial contender for other modern and vintage watches from famous brands, and as a result they have become the domain of those with a fair amount of disposable income, much of which seems to have started to be thrown at these things with less apprehension than an excited toddler jumping into a soft ball play area after five tubes of Smarties.
This in turn has also seen Seiko's marketing strategy shift to capitalise on this growing awareness of the brand's history and watches, not really with much effort of their own it would seem, not unless we are talking Hodinkee articles that clearly are tied in with a push from Seiko to rejoice of their virtues, which in turn could see a watch being "affordable and vintage", soon becoming not so affordable and rather predictably overpriced fairly soon after.
It's often clear that your average Hodinkee article would use the same sources as anyone would, albeit with slightly less accuracy and somewhat exaggerated praise, and dare I say, a rather superficial level of passion mixed in with the fluff. All that "knowledge" and "passion" came as a result of the research, experience and actual fascination that had been cultivated throughout years of old Seiko forum Network 54 posts to what is now SCWF and the brand ambassadors and experts thereon. Those with real passion. Those who did it for years to become the enthusiasts who contributed and would be renowned to have been the ones we listened to and hopefully would be able to use their shoulders to stand on in order to add more to the story, or at least give a mention to. Not some lurker that siphons off this information in snippets to get paid for their interests in a hyped up article. And nothing from Seiko that makes me believe they appreciate it. Oh but they have been listening, and watching, although sometimes I think without enough understanding.
Can I speak on behalf of other Seiko enthusiasts? Likely not, but if I may say one thing it would seem there is a growing awareness of Seiko becoming just a little unrecognisable now. They, we, or maybe I feel as if they've, we've, I've been forgotten about, I know at times I certainly do. Many of whom might be here and posted countless words of info that's helped me, and undoubtedly so, I too have helped promote these watches over the years, or maybe not promote, like a Hodinkee article might, but let's say 'passionately explore', of my own volition.
The release of the "Turtle" (SRP777) some 3 or so years ago was a fairly decent representation of the 1970s/80s 6306 and 6309 calibre based cushion case divers. A watch that would see many different colour combinations, o.k., yes, some poor alignment issues but with welcome updates like hacking and hand winding, slightly different dimensions and feel, but a watch that would do well at a price point that made sense at around 2 or 300 pounds, and on the whole not released as limited editions with the fashionably forced marketing technique of "exclusivity". Not a bad nod to the lovers of Seiko that really have helped to promote the virtues of these watches, whether it be the finer details of a Hong Kong dial, or the lume texture of a Suwa dial. The 6309/6306 was out in a new form and many clearly love them. The word "honest" comes up a lot, for me it simply means "not trying too hard to be what it isn't". Relatively cheap, enjoyable to wear and fairly well made watches that had some of the things that many wanted. It was just a healthy general acknowledgment of what people liked about these older watches and a gesture of awareness that "we are listening" from Seiko to release them for us all.
At the same time, talk of a 6105 reissue was present, before my time involved aswell, but it was a pie in the sky idea, a dream with no real idea how it would realistically be done, if at all. But, I think I recall it being something that "
everyone could own without having to search for an original". Meaning, and maybe reading between the lines, "something I could enjoy and readily buy without having to spend £5 hundred to £1k on an original." Anyone remember that? Or are we all just pleased our investments are finally paying off?
At this point we of course have had the release of the PRS68 and the Sharkey homages. Both of which satisfied that need, well, for some, but we still wanted Seiko to do it themselves, do it with some
nice surprises, do it with some care and, more importantly, do it for all of 'us'. Do it in a way that ticked as many boxes as possible without distancing themselves or targeting a new base audience with imposed exclusivity by either pricing or limited availability. Wishful thinking? It appears so.
2015 saw the release of the SBDC027, a limited edition of 2000 units that didn't quite hit the mark, although looked pretty smart. At the time I had quite a few 6105s, just 3 or 4 years ago, all bought for sub £700 with the nicest, boxed, "mint" condition version (it had its issues) being £925. Not hitting the mark I say as the SBDC027 was talked about as a nod to the 62MAS and 6105 we had all wanted. It's price at the time I seem to recall was twice that of the normal Sumo, or around 6 or 700 pounds. It was perceived as expensive for what it was. You sometimes see them and they don't quite move as quickly as one would expect and it made me question at the time whether Seiko should do well to leave alone the idea of a reproduction of any of their classics. Really and in all honesty, why not just await what is to be next once the slim SKX007 would be phased out continuing that long line of evolution from the 60s divers. Something to look forward to. The SKX is something that's successful, be it to modders, die hard fans and those that have never heard of Seiko or contemplated owning one. The good thing about them is there are a lot of them out there.
Of course with the SRP777 release I felt the same as some others, slightly missing the mark, although they are popular watches that in their own right work well. And I'm fairly positive this made Seiko a lot of money and would see an owner not only become aware of the 6309 diver as a result but aware of those that came even before that. But again with these watches there was something missing, something not quite what we wanted or something that wasn't necessary if it didn't strictly carry over what gave the 6309 its charm. We got glossy, raised green lume plots. Overly text-laden dials: that X (PS for Prospect, which I don't mind too much).
That said there were some pretty models introduced and I certainly wouldnt say no to any of them. One which I believe will be a future classic is the SRP789, but that is just me. They have taken on a charm in their own right and again they're readily available.
I also felt that, for anyone wanting a 6309 or 6306, even a 6105 or 62mas, the price to be paid wasn't far off. Infact even now the 6309 can easily be had for not much more if not even less than an SRP777 at times, depending on condition, maybe a new crystal is all that's needed, if that. A beaten up vintage watch can have a load of enjoyment, depending on price. The SRP777 release for me is a healthy balance of choice for people who want a modern interpretation along with the reliability and ease of acquisition, or if not, they can seek out a fairly common vintage model for not much difference in cost. And on that note, and it is my opinion, that the 6105 is not much different than the 6309 when embarking on a quest to find a decent original. Let's say that there certainly doesn't seem to be a shortage of them coming on the market. There certainly isn't a shortage of them in people's collections, sometimes in the 10s or 20s. But they, the 6105, as a result of much hype and successful unintended marketing, also certainly aren't a bargain any more, or maybe not even value for money anymore either.
And so with that shift in the 6105's pricing and (un)availability, where are things now? What will become of the SLA033? What is this new direction for Seiko? I don't appreciate the stance that this is good for those with many examples in their collections. I also don't appreciate the stance that this is to market their grand Seiko line to the US. However way you cut it, Seiko are trying their damnedest to appeal to a much more well heeled buyer, but seemingly wants to do so with fairly casual abandon of its old and current remaining fans, and more frustratingly they do it with this limited edition nonsense that really puts me off. I can miss out on exclusivity. I really do not care.
We recently had the release of the SLA025 limited edition: 1500 pieces, £5 thousand pounds. A 6159 re-release that does look great but, who cares, really. It is for the few. Exclusivity to show "you got one". A watch that looks flashy. A watch that clearly isn't aimed at the past Seiko market. It's a Grand Seiko but without the "Grand", or 5 of them when it comes to your wallet, a Seiko that will be shown off more readily on a Rolex forum than a Seiko forum. A watch that was now enjoyed by and aimed at the same crowd who just a few years ago would shun the brand name Seiko. It all seems a little...showy. A 6159 was released long before the SLA025 and could be had just few years ago for £1.5 to £2k. And again, if I haven't made it clear, you miss out on one? Give it a day or two or three, and another, and another, and another would and will show up. People hold on to them now, for fear they won't replace it as easily or maybe get what it's worth, whilst others can't get rid of them for what they want if they just don't quite cut it for your "mint condition" criteria.
What did it? What had this effect? Surely it isn't as superficial as a price tag and enforced exclusivity?
The SLA017 was released prior, again a limited edition of 2000 pieces. Lacking an applied logo and to me not a very desirable looking dial along with a glossy insert. Overpriced exclusivity for those with the deeper pockets. Nice watch, but again, I can get over the fear of missing out.
Now, of course, to pay too close attention to the high price or limited numbers and then endow the watch with all the sore talking points that this would bring about is possibly missing the point and does take away from those owners who can afford the watch and enjoy it for what it is. It isn't so much about those owners. It isn't so much about the watch's value, which could be debated endlessly. Both of these watches were and are desirable. Both looked great. But for me, they simply weren't the Seiko I loved, they were not for me. They were not for everyone and it is this that wasn't recognisable to me any longer. That brand image is changing for me, but that's not something I'm sure would displease Seiko to hear.
All this amounts to a vastly different approach and one that would see the brand's image change also in the eyes of many, but I worry if it has all happened a little too forcibly and a little too excessively, maybe not forgetting one's roots is a line I could square at Seiko when it comes to going after a more affluent market. Can this be so easily achieved with limited reissues, but more importantly can it be maintained for very long? What's next, a limited edition 6306 with an 8L35? A limited edition 7548 diver with a spring drive movement for £4500? Oh. It would appear to me that it is no longer about innocent enjoyment of quality under-the-radar watches, it had become investment. It became a question of returns. A more and more common talking point of prices only going one way. It became hyped up hodinkee articles. It became dealers buying up stock and shifting for a premium. It became about exclusivity. We only have to see the latest Hodinkee related Seiko Alpinist release that's sold out. Thanks for looking. Sorry we're closed. Come back another time.
Dealers listing on eBay at twice the reasonable-ish 600USD retail price. Enthusiastic purchasers getting emails their orders have been cancelled due to "system errors. A shame to many, and it seems as though the awareness of this rather cynical marketing drive and approach is becoming a little bit obvious and contrived.
Collectors with deeper pockets seemingly started paying attention and not many who buy these things show their face on a Seiko forum it would seem. You do however see them on the wrists of people who have a day off wearing their expensive Swiss vintage watch. And I guess I'm not knocking that, but the saying "you've changed your tune" comes to mind, and am I being overly cynical when I see imposed exclusivity and high prices as being the only catalyst of this new found fan base? Maybe! Maybe not?
So how does one regard Seiko now, just Seiko. Not Grand Seiko, not Credor. Just Seiko. To be honest, I will say that it is with much more ambivalence, much less passion, and a lot more disappointment. I see Instagram posts of what are quite obviously the higher end watch enthusiasts that have steadily started paying attention. A have-to-have-it-now mentality has propelled prices to what are now quite excessive and borderline ridiculous, and they keep buying and buying. Comments from disappointed fans of yet another highly priced inaccessible watch that was dreamed of by the many and now only a reality for the few, when it comes down to it, when it comes down to the 62MAS, or 6105, 6159, they are out of reach. And no, Seiko aren't gonna push it any closer.
But they are everywhere, really. Nothing too exciting, nothing really that amazing. Maybe becoming a little too hyped and ubiquitous, and this was never not the case, but there is a juxtaposition when seen priced as they are and in collections that cost the same as a small house. Remember, "it's just a Seiko" is something Seiko will do their best to change. But for me, they will always be "just a Seiko". That's what I loved about them. That's what made me passionate about them. That's what I feel is lost.
It is a shame that for one market these have become almost, dare I say, a stop gap for your disillusioned Swiss watch collectors. Whilst at the same time growing ever more inaccessible to a dyed in the wool fan.
Anything on eBay with the name Seiko in the title is invariably detailed as "rare", even "super rare", and if they lack the buzz necessary then one can pull out the "ultra rare" wild card description, this often tied in with l@@k and "don't miss out".
Is it all getting a little far-fetched, a little over-the-top? And worryingly the fakers have really set their sights on the brand, from requests for the 62MAS to be faked, to I'm sure any other number of the more widely known models showing up. Dials and overall watches are becoming all too difficult to discern from the real thing. Maybe not to you or I, but eventually people won't bother. Be it vintage or modern. There will always be something else that can give just as much enjoyment and at a fraction of the cost and stress.
Are Seiko aiming for a richer (financially) market that is a little in limbo now when it comes to watches in general, for them to just as sooner fall out of love with their watches as they did fall "in love" with them? I wonder who are Seiko's fans now? But more to the point, I wonder who their fans will be in a few years time? When this zealous marketing campaign of exclusivity and high pricing, built on a reputation reinforced by many a passionate ambassador for Seiko's history and vintage watches, makes them grow bored, jaded and ironically shunned by the brand just as the Swiss watch collector had done with the name Seiko not that long ago.
Good luck!
The Dispensable Fan.